Putt back in time on Lake Rosseau

MUSKOKA — He is fondly referred to as the “Dippy Doctor,” an expert on marine engines, local lore, books, music, and, of course, the beloved Disappearing Propeller Boats.
I asked Paul Dodington if we could combine some of his passions, taking a tour aboard a dippy around parts of Lake Rosseau. It would be a nostalgic reminiscence through a storied part of the lake: Arthurlie Bay, Brackenrig Bay and up to the splendid islands: Sans Souci, Alfreda, and Euphemia, as well as other hidden gems.
Alice and Stephan Meinecke joined us for this mystery tour. We headed out in Wharerah, Paul’s dippy which is named after the boarding house his family ran. The word is Maori and means House of the Rising Sun, and both house and boat are treasures still alive in Muskoka.
Many of the names on the lake have stories behind them. Popular Victorian literature often pops up – Paul said many of the cottages, roads and wooden boats at the south end of the lake have names inspired by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s poem, Song of Hiawatha. Onaway Island is named for one of the characters in the epic poem.
Other names reflect attitudes, real or hoped for. Sans Souci means Without A Care. In the 1890s it was owned by Senator Sanford, a wholesale clothing merchant from Hamilton. He was one of the lake’s more colourful residents in his heyday, but sadly he drowned in front of his colossal cottage in 1899.
Senator Sanford owned a boat many people say was the most gorgeous launch Muskoka ever saw, the Naiad. Built in Toronto at Polson Iron Works, it was modelled on a launch owned by Queen Victoria. In the water you can still see the underwater marine railroad used to haul it out when the season was over.
Not all the delights on this tour are man-made. Putting slowly along the lake we encountered wildlife such as seagulls protecting their nesting grounds, and rescued a lime green luna moth, one of the largest moths in North America.
Then it was time to gasp at the cottages again as we rounded a point and saw one of the oldest Victorian masterpieces still standing in Muskoka, the cottage known as Lauralea, in all her yellow glory.
On this part of the lake, history lurks around every point. We saw a perfect log cabin on Guide Island, then passed Bass Island, an 1882 cottage with its own hunting loon mascot.
Under the setting sun we finally putted back to Wharerah, thrilled with our five hour tour of the lake and our trip back in time.

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